Classic Uzbekistan & Aral Sea: 12 Day Itinerary

Day 2: Journey to Nukus - Off the Beaten Path

Looking for something more authentic and less touristy? Nukus might be just what you're after. It’s remote, raw, and offers a very different vibe from Uzbekistan’s more polished cities.

Why Nukus?

• 🎨 Off-the-beaten-path: Far fewer tourists than cities like Samarkand or Bukhara.

• 🌊 Gateway to the Aral Sea:

  • Once one of the world’s largest lakes, now a haunting ecological disaster.

  • Expect dramatic, surreal scenery – think rusting ships stranded in the desert and dry, cracked shorelines.

  • A powerful reminder of environmental change.

Getting There: Overnight Train from Tashkent

• 🚆 Departure: From Tashkent Station at 2:00 p.m.

• ⏰ Pro tip: Arrive early! There’s a special waiting area for foreign travelers with:

  • Free coffee & tea

  • Wi-Fi

  • Charging stations

  • Friendly attendant (very eager to help!)

Train Experience

• 🛏 We booked: A 2-person, 1st-class cabin

  • Comfortable, cozy, and included blankets and pillows

• 🚽 Toilet: Western-style, but note:

  • Only accessible while the train is moving

  • Locked during station stops

Book your train to Nukus

Day 3: Exploring Nukus & the Ghosts of the Aral Sea

🚆 Arrival in Nukus – Around 7:00 a.m., we stepped off the overnight train and met our pre-arranged driver at the station.
🚗 Transport – A private car and driver for the day (about 5–6 hours) cost us $60 USD—totally worth it for the remote locations we visited.

🏛️ First Stop: Mizdakhan Architectural Complex

• An ancient necropolis, once a key Zoroastrian site before the spread of Islam.

• Covers over 200 hectares and includes mausoleums, mosques, and tombs from various eras.

• 🌄 Morning visit tip: Arriving early gave the place a hauntingly quiet vibe—almost empty except for a few groundskeepers.

⚓ Next Stop: Moynaq Ship Cemetery

• Once a thriving port town on the Aral Sea, Moynaq now sits miles from the water.

• The Ship Cemetery is filled with rusted vessels stranded in the desert—an eerie symbol of ecological collapse.

• A powerful reminder of the Soviet irrigation projects that drained the sea and reshaped the landscape forever.

Visitors can now walk among rusted, decaying ships resting on the desert, symbolizing the region's environmental catastrophe.

Day 4: Khiva – A Silk Road Time Capsule

Journey to Khiva
Getting from Nukus to Khiva isn't the easiest, as Nukus isn’t well-connected to the rest of Uzbekistan.
We hired the same driver from the previous day for the 5-hour journey — cost: $50 USD per car.

🕌 Welcome to Khiva

In striking contrast to the modernity of Tashkent or the raw edge of Nukus, Khiva is a beautifully preserved oasis of history and architecture. Known for its well-preserved old town, Itchan Kala, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Khiva has a rich history dating back over a thousand years. It was a prominent trading post on the Silk Road and later fell under Russian control before being incorporated into the Soviet Union.

The main sights in Khiva are all within the walled old town of Itchan Kala. It is so well preserved that it feels like a living museum.  You can observe traditional uzbek bread cooking process , where dough is stuck on the sides of a clay oven called tandoor or witness or tight rope walking performance.

Key Landmarks in Itchan Kala

All within walking distance in the old town:

• 🟦 Kalta Minor Minaret
  Iconic turquoise minaret and symbol of Khiva—especially magical when lit up at night.

• 🏰 Kuhna Ark
  The old fortress and former royal residence of the Khiva Khans.

• 🕋 Juma Mosque
  A unique mosque with 213 wooden columns and a peaceful, shaded interior.

• 🏛 Tosh-Hovli Palace
  Another lavish palace of the Khans, with intricate tilework and courtyards.

• 🧕 Islam-Khoja Minaret & Madrasah
  A towering minaret next to an Islamic school—great for panoramic views if you're up for the climb.

Despite seeming like a lot to cover in one day, Khiva's old town is small, and distances are manageable—unless you wish to take long breaks from the sharp midday sun.

Given the city’s rich history, I recommend a guided tour. We used GuruWalk, which operates on a pay-what-you-like principle.

Day 5: Elliq-Qala Forts – Desert Castles of Ancient Khorezm

The next day can be spent visiting the Elliq-Qalla forts, a 1.5-hour drive from Khiva. Renting a car with a driver costs about 50 USD.

What You’ll Visit

Although the name refers to 50 forts, you'll typically visit three of the most impressive:

• 🏛 Toprak Qala – Once a royal residence, with a clearly visible layout.

• 🏔 Ayaz Qala – Perched on a hilltop, offering panoramic desert views.

• 🧱 Janbas Qala – Known for its well-preserved clay walls and unique design.

These forts are perfect for travelers into history, archaeology, or just epic scenery with minimal crowds.

Day 6: Getting to Bukhara - A Day in Transit

Cheapest way to get from Khiva to Bukhara is by train, however the journey takes 7 hours and the train departs only once a day ( at 11.00 am), therefore majority of the day will be spent in transit.

Non budget conscious travellers can arrange a shared taxi, however time savings are not that substantial (5-6 hours instead of 7).

🌍 Optional Detour: Through Turkmenistan

For a more adventurous route, consider this cross-border twist:

• Route: Khiva → Turkmenistan → Re-enter Uzbekistan near Bukhara

• 🌐 Example itinerary:  https://www.thefarawayfiles.com/blog/asia/turkmenistan/2020533_turkmenistan-5-day-itinerary 

• ⚠️ Important: You’ll need a Letter of Invitation (LOI) from a Turkmen travel agency—this route requires advance planning and cannot be done spontaneously.

Day 7: Bukhara – Timeless Elegance on the Silk Road

🏙️ Arrival in Bukhara’s Old Town
Stepping into Bukhara’s historic center makes the long journey totally worth it.
Like Khiva, it was a major Silk Road hub for trade, culture, and Islamic scholarship.
Despite some Soviet-era modernization, many monuments remain beautifully preserved.

🕌 Top Sights to Explore

• Po-i-Kalyan Complex: Features the Kalyan Minaret, also known as the "Tower of Death" for its historical use as an execution site, as well as the Kalyan Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Madrasah.
  • 📸 Pro tip: This complex is exceptionally photogenic at night!
• Ark Fortress: An ancient citadel and museum.
• Bolo Haouz Mosque: Known for its elegant wooden pillars supporting the porch.
• Chor Minor: A small yet charming mosque with four distinctive towers topped with blue domes. For a small fee, you can climb to the top of the dome.
• Ismail Samani Mausoleum: A small but architecturally impressive mausoleum renowned for its intricate brickwork.

Day 8: Bukhara (Continued) – Slow Strolls & Hidden Gems

🗓️ If you’ve got an extra day in Bukhara, take time to explore more relaxed and culturally rich spots beyond the main landmarks.

• Lyab-i Hauz Ensemble: A social and cultural hub in Bukhara, including several madrasahs (universities) and a sugi lodge.
• Trading Domes (Taqi): Covered bazaars with three domes housing active markets.
• Emir's Summer Palace: A palace from the 19th-20th centuries with eclectic architecture reflecting both local and European influences.

Day 9: Samarkand – Grand Finale on the Silk Road

🚆 Getting There

Traveling from Bukhara to Samarkand by train is easy and convenient, taking only 2-3 hours, depending on the train. However, book your tickets well in advance, as domestic tickets often sell out quickly, especially during peak seasons of spring / autumn.

🕌 First Impressions

Just when you think nothing could top Khiva or Bukhara, Samarkand delivers a final, jaw-dropping act.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site and Silk Road icon, Samarkand is defined by its sheer grandeur and majesty.

📍 Top Sights to Explore

• Registan Square: The heart of Samarkand, flanked by three magnificent madrasahs: Ulugh Beg Madrasah (15th century), Sher-Dor Madrasah (17th century), and Tilya-Kori Madrasah (17th century). Allow sufficient time to visit all three as they are truly magnificent, though expect a tourist-heavy experience at Registan Square.
• Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum: The final resting place of Timur, the founder of the Timurid Empire. This mausoleum is an architectural masterpiece. Visit in the evening when the crowds thin out and the site is beautifully lit.
• Bibi-Khanym Mosque: Once one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world, it is not fully partially reconstructed, but still awe-inspiring.
• Siab Bazaar: A bustling market near Bibi-Khanym Mosque, offering a vibrant atmosphere with traditional foods, spices, and textiles. Be prepared for a more interactive shopping experience.

Day 10: Samarkand (Continued) – Hidden Corners & Ancient Skies

📸 Still so much to see—Samarkand is too grand for just one day. If you're spending a second day, here’s what not to miss:

🕌 Spiritual & Architectural Gems

• Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis: A complex of mausoleums and tombs adorned with intricate mosaics and patterns.
• Hazrati Hizr Mosque: Located on a hill overlooking the ancient city, this mosque offers panoramic views of the surrounding area. It is still an active prayer site and is stunning after dark.

🧠 For Museum Lovers

• Ulugh Beg Observatory: Built in the 15th century, this observatory was one of the most advanced of its time. While most of the observatory has been converted into a museum, remnants of the large sextant used to measure celestial movements can still be seen. Note that it can be crowded during peak hours.
• Afrosiab Museum and Archaeological Site: Displays artifacts from Samarkand’s pre-Islamic and early Islamic periods, including murals, pottery, and coins.

Day 11: Shahrisabz – In the Footsteps of Timur

A popular day trip from Samarkand, Shahrisabz is the birthplace of Amir Timur, founder of the Timurid Empire. While it doesn’t match Samarkand’s scale, it holds deep historical significance and is perfect if you’re not quite done with Timurid heritage.

🧑‍🏫 Tip: Many structures are partially ruined, so hiring a local guide will really enhance your visit with historical context.

🏯 Top Sites in Shahrisabz:

• Ak-Saray Palace: Timur’s summer residence, now mostly in ruins. However, the surviving parts, including the grand entrance portal, showcase its former magnificence.
• Dorut Tilovat Complex: Includes the Kok Gumbaz Mosque and Gumbazi-Seyidan Mausoleum, where Timur’s family members are buried.
• Dor-us Siyadat Complex: Also known as the House of Power, intended to be Timur’s family mausoleum.
• Amir Timur Statue: A prominent statue of Amir Timur stands in the central square of Shahrisabz, symbolizing the city’s pride in its most famous son.

There are no trains or public transport from Samarkand to Shahrisabz, so you’ll need to book a day tour or hire a taxi/driver. On the upside, the drive to Shahrisabz is picturesque and winding through mountainous landscapes and will normally include a few scenic stops.