Serbia in 72 Hours: From Medieval Fortresses to Bohemian Streets

Day 1 – Belgrade: Layers of History and Culture

You’ll likely be arriving in Belgrade, Serbia’s bustling capital with a population of around 1.5 million. With its medieval fortresses, remnants of socialist-era architecture, and vibrant café culture, the city deserves at least a full day of exploration.

As always, my top recommendation for your first day in a new city is a walking tour. I joined The Belgrade historical center tour by Stefan which included visits (from the outside) to several highlights, which I'll list here in case you want to explore independently!

📍 Highlights of the Walking Tour:

• Hotel "Moskva" - A stunning Art Nouveau landmark in central Belgrade. Over the decades, it has hosted icons like Albert Einstein, Alfred Hitchcock, Richard Nixon, Ray Charles, and Brad Pitt. Even if an overnight stay is out of budget, the hotel’s elegant café is open to the public, featuring velvet armchairs, crystal chandeliers, live piano music, and their legendary Moskva Schnitt—a fruit-and-almond cream cake made from a secret recipe. Despite its grandeur, prices are very reasonable.
• Republic Square - main city square and a lively meeting point surrounded by the National Museum, the National Theatre, and the statue of Prince Mihailo Obrenović on horseback.
• Skadarlija - Belgrade’s charming bohemian quarter — a cobbled street lined with cafés, restaurants, art galleries, and traditional taverns (kafanas).
  • Once a hangout for writers, journalists, artists, and musicians in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Skadarlija maintains its romantic, old-world atmosphere today.
• Bajrakli Mosque- The oldest and only active mosque in Belgrade, with a complex past reflecting the region’s shifting power dynamics: originally a mosque, later a church, and then restored again as a mosque.
• Belgrade Fortress - massive complex including ramparts, gates, towers, and bastions, alongside museums, chapels, and a military bunker. It's been built and rebuilt over 16 centuries and bears traces of many different empires.
  • Entry to Belgrade fortress is free of charge but several attractions within it may require a separate ticket
• Kalemegdan Park - largest and most popular park in Belgrade, located within and around Belgrade Fortress at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers
  • The park’s ramparts provide panoramic views over the rivers and the city — especially beautiful at sunset
  • The park also features the iconic Victor Monument, depicting a nude male figure holding a sword and a falcon—symbolizing both war and peace. Originally intended for the city center, it was instead placed here after public objections to the statue’s nudity in a more visible location.
• Kafana “?” - Known as the Question Mark Tavern, it’s the oldest continuously operating tavern in the city. Its quirky name dates back to a dispute with the nearby church, after which it dropped its previous name (“At the Cathedral Church”) and adopted a question mark as a playful compromise. Legend has it that patrons could say they were “going to the church” and head to the tavern instead—something the priests didn’t find amusing!
• Cathedral of the Holy Archangel Michael - this time an actual cathedral beautifully decorated with frescoes and icons, in case you want to combine some spiritually with a good tavern visit (located just in front the Kafana "?").

Throughout the tour, we heard both lighthearted and somber stories from Serbia’s past. Serbia’s modern history is complex and includes the Yugoslav wars of the 1990s, a period still fresh in collective memory. Locals may share personal perspectives—some tragic, some resilient—which adds depth and humanity to the experience.

Far from casting a shadow on the visit, these narratives offer visitors a more nuanced understanding of the region's history and identity. And if you're curious, you'll even get to learn how to read Cyrillic, as Serbia is the only country in Europe that officially uses both Latin and Cyrillic alphabets.

Day 2 – Exploring the West of Serbia

On the second day, I chose to explore Western Serbia, a region known for its picturesque landscapes and the stunning Drina River. I opted for a guided tour, but all of the sites can also be visited with a rental car (public transport does not serve these destinations).

🏡 Drina House

Our first stop was the Drina House — a small, iconic wooden cabin perched on a rock in the middle of the Drina River.

Built in 1968 by a group of local swimmers looking for a place to rest, it has since become a symbol of resilience and harmony with nature. Despite being repeatedly washed away by floods and strong currents, it has always been lovingly rebuilt.

🎬 Drvengrad – Mećavnik

Next up was Drvengrad (also called Mećavnik) — a captivating, all-wood “movie village” created by Serbian filmmaker Emir Kusturica as the set for his film Life Is a Miracle.

Originally just a film set, it has evolved into a charming staycation destination, complete with lodging, wellness facilities, cafés, and restaurants. Walking through it feels like stepping into a wooden fairytale town.

🚂 Šargan Eight Railway

Our final attraction for the day was a ride on the Šargan Eight, a historic narrow-gauge heritage railway located in the mountainous Mokra Gora region.

I’ll admit, I was a bit skeptical about driving so far just for a scenic train ride with no specific destination—but it turned out to be a highlight of the day!

Highlights of the experience:

• Originally an active railway until the mid-1900s, it's now a museum train using beautifully restored 1930s steam and diesel locomotives.
• The train winds through 22 tunnels and crosses five scenic bridges—you can open the windows and enjoy the fresh air and panoramic views.
• Its unique figure-eight loop (hence the name) was ingeniously designed so the train passes the same point twice at different elevations.
• The ride lasts about 45 minutes, which feels just right — long enough to enjoy, but short enough to stay fun and engaging!

🚗 Transport Considerations

• If you take a guided tour all the logistics will be fully taken care off, but the tours are rather pricey and it's still a long day in the van
  • Tour examples Belgrade Best of West
  • Drina River and Tara park
• If you drive yourself it's much cheaper (~$40/day excluding fuel) and provides more flexibility, but be mindful that it's a LOT of driving, around 6,5h in a day

Day 3 – Golubac Fortress

Today’s itinerary is one of my favorites as we visit Golubac Fortress — a stunning medieval castle perched dramatically on the banks of the Danube River. It’s one of the most photogenic and popular landmarks in Serbia, offering a perfect blend of history, nature, and adventure.

🏰 About the Fortress:

• Built in the 14th century, Golubac served as a strategic stronghold guarding the Danube’s crucial trade and military route.
  • It sits at the narrowest part of the Danube, creating a natural choke point. To control river traffic, medieval defenders even stretched a massive chain across the river to stop enemy ships from passing.
• The fortress is featured on the 10 dinar bill—and for good reason. With its nine imposing towers, steep stone walls, and a dramatic backdrop of cliffs and water, it looks like something straight out of a fantasy film. (Game of Thrones fans, anyone?)
• For decades, Golubac was off-limits to tourists due to its deteriorated condition and proximity to the Romanian border. It reopened only after major renovations were completed in 2019.
• The fortress and its towers are divided into four access zones, depending on difficulty and safety:
  • Green Zone – Includes the palace area and three towers (Towers 5, 8, and 9). Suitable for all visitors. Ticket price: ~750 RSD (~7–8 USD).
  • Blue Zone (Moderate) – Adds Tower 4 with a slightly steeper path. Entry only with a guide. Ticket price: ~1,200 RSD (~11–12 USD).
  • Red Zone (Harder) – Adds Tower 7. Same price and conditions as the Blue Zone.
  • Black Zone (Extremely Difficult) – Includes the famed Hat Tower (Tower 1)—a steep climb, sometimes involving chains. Ticket price: ~1,700 RSD (~16–17 USD).

I chose the Blue Zone, and it’s definitely worth it if you’re not afraid of heights—the views from Tower 4 are spectacular! In hindsight, I would have loved to try the Red or Black Zones just to imagine the even more breathtaking scenery from there.

Important note: While the Blue Zone can in theory be tackled in any footwear and clothing, the fortress supervisors are strict and will NOT sell tickets for zones beyond Green if you’re wearing open shoes (e.g., sandals) or skirts. So, if you plan to explore the higher towers, make sure to wear closed shoes and pants!

Nearby Attraction: Danube Gorge Speed Boat Ride

Another highlight near Golubac Fortress is a speed boat ride through the Danube Gorge. This 45-minute ride costs 25 EUR (cash only) and offers panoramic views of the Danube River, dramatic limestone cliffs, and the fortress from the water. You’ll also pass through the Iron Gate—a spectacular natural gorge where the Danube cuts through the Carpathian and Balkan Mountains along the Serbia-Romania border.

While the name might evoke visions of “King’s Landing” from Game of Thrones, this “gate” is entirely natural, showcasing the stunning power and beauty of the river and surrounding landscape

🚗 Transport Considerations

• Unlike the previous day’s sights, Golubac Fortress is accessible by public transport. You can take a bus from Belgrade to Golubac town. From there, you have the option to take a quick taxi or walk 4 km to the fortress if you want to enjoy riverside views along the way.
  • Note: The fortress opens at 10 a.m., so if you take the earliest bus from Belgrade, you may have some waiting time before the fortress opens.

• Guided tours are again an option, for example:
  • Golubac fortress & Iron Gate -GetYourGuide
  • Golubac Fortress & Iron Gate- Viator
  • Note: tour prices often do not include the fortress entrance fee, and some may or may not cover the boat ride.
• If you prefer, driving yourself remains a valid option—with about 4 hours total driving time from Belgrade, it’s a manageable day trip.